Sloth = Beachgirl

It's been HOW LONG since my last post? Not to mention, HOW LONG since I've been in the ocean? UGH, I feel like sloth. My elbows and my neck rash is better, but I came down with an ear infection several days ago. Really sux. This no-exercise routine is definitely not doing my body any good. I suppose I could clean up around the apartment... Eh, the mess doesn't bother me. It'll just get messed up again anyways, right? hehehe...

I miss being out on the water, that feeling of catching the wave, having Marlon yell at me about everything that I'm doing wrong on Jane, being confused about what the heck made me fall of the wave, etc... I'm giving my body one more day of rest. Then back in the water I'll go.

All beat up...

No, I haven't fallen off the face of the earth. I'm finally back home and recovered.. sort of. I left last Friday for a kiteboarding trip to Baja and got back late Tuesday night, then off to San Francisco for a conference. My flight was actually Tuesday afternoon, but I decided to blow off the flight so that I could stay down in Mexico one more day. Hehe.. Yes, such a loyal trusty employee, I am. It was well worth it though.

I've come back with some minor injuries though that are preventing me to surfing for a few days - couple of blisters on my hand that ripped from the kitebar - now they're infected, a couple of cuts on the bottom of my foot from stepping on a rock on the beach - I'm limping now, a BIG 10 inch rash across my neck from the wetsuit (yes, it looks like a big ole hickey across my neck), and tendonitis on both my elbows from kiting 5 days straight. So nothing much to write about in terms of surf (since the surf was flat where I was) except that I'm now jone-sin' for a great surf session....

Hosed...

OKAY, I should have known. It was wishful thinking. I got to Sunset and it was weee ankle high. Only 3 guys out. I waited about 20 minutes and decided that I was hosed. I checked the conditions last night (yes, I finally learned) and knew that it was going to be flat at 6am. Nevertheless, my desperate self thought maybe, just MAYBE, a miracle would bring some good waves. EGH!! The tide was too low. Man... this is REALLY starting to bug me - the work thing, I mean. I know that Sunset would have been fun like yesterday if I gave it more time for the tide to fill in a bit more. BAAAH!!! Why couldn't I have a job that accomodates my surfing habit?

Hosed again... X-(

I'm Scaredy-Cat!

My alarm went off at 5:30am and I rolled out of bed and into my wetsuit with my eyes barely open. Man, I was so tired... But I grabbed my board and drove myself to Sunset. I don't even remember driving there. You know that state when you're so tired that you just drive the route that you usually drive without even thinking about it? Well, I made it to Sunset without thinking twice. Wow, I guess it's now become a habit. :-P

I surfed the Point at Sunset this morning - my first time there. After everything that I've heard about the Point - that you have to be a good surfer to ride there, that you need to be able to turn quick and go down the line like pro or you'll end up at the rocks along with your board - I was a bit nervous about getting into the line up there. Actually, I was just scared. :-\ Yes, scared even though the waves were small. I still suck donkey. :-[ I did notice that the waves were a lot quicker than where I usually sit out at Sunset - Dos Banos and the Stairs. Marlon was there waiting for me in the line-up, which gave me some relief from the scaredy-cat in me. It was actually really fun. I met Michael (a cool dude that I'd never met before) who rode some waves with me and gave me pointers. And Marlon rode some waves with me and reminded me to turn to go down the line. Is there any lefts at Sunset? I'm a goofy foot and am always going down the line on rights. I don't think I've ever gone down the line on lefts. I wonder if I even know how... I'd like to order a left at Sunset please.

No notable waves to talk about. I'm catching waves consistently now (yey). Small waves, not big ones. I think I need to work on my posture though. Marlon says that I bend at the waist a lot of the time. Maybe I should practice squatting more during my popups in the livingroom. By the way, I really want to learn how to do a kick-out (wait, is this what its called?) at the end of the wave. I don't like this "jump off the board to stop the ride" routine. I see the others do a kick-out to turn the board and paddle right back out. Cool move... I asked Marlon about how to do it and he explained but eh, in one ear and out the other. I need to physically do it before I understand what that's all about...

All in all, it was a fun session. I made a new friend - Michael, surfed a new spot for the first time, and got good exercise. I wanted to stay longer but work, of course, got in the way as usual. X-(

Sunset again tomorrow morning...

O waves, why do you hate me so?

Since I haven't surfed in a few days due to my busy work schedule, I got up early this morning at 5:30am to surf. No, I didn't check the tide, and no, I didn't check the conditions. And yes, I was too lazy to check the surf report last night. I guess I never learn, do I... :-\ I figured that I'd paddle out no matter what anyways. I went to Bay Street and the ocean looked angry. Wave after wave... I think it must have taken me about 15 minutes to paddle out. Man, my paddling must still suck donkey. I thought my paddling had improved, but I guess I was wrong. After I got outside, I was so tired that I needed to rest for another 10 minutes. And as soon as I caught a wave in, I had to deal with being pounded by set after set in my struggle to get back outside. Ay-yay-yay... Caught on the inside AGAIN! I tried to paddle outside again for about 20 more minutes then just gave up. I got pissed off at the waves for getting the best of me and pummeling me with their anger one after another. Finally, I just said, "fine, you win." Yes, I'm a wimp. O waves, why do you hate me so? I just wanted a few rides this morning....

On the bright side, the water has been warming up. I was really hot in my 3/2 full suit. :-P

Good Old Sunset

Sunset was fun today. After over 3 hours out in the water, I'm now sportin' a fat hand and neck tan. I think that was the longest session ever since I started surfing back in January. I got into the water at around 7am and didn't get out until after 10:30am, at which point, I had trouble popping up. I was catching waves, but I was so tired that I would pop up and fall off right away.

I need to work on my form. I know I'm not looking too graceful when I'm riding. Marlon says that I need to pull my shoulders back and STOP sticking my butt into the air. Haha, I bet THAT looks real nice. MHM. I need to squat more, I think. I'll practice in my livingroom this week and see if I can bring it to a moving surfboard during my next session.

I'd like order a wave please....

The tide was right, so I went to sunset at 6:20am. And well... not much going on there. There were 2 desperate surfers, waiting, sitting on their boards in the water, hoping for a ride. I watched until about 7am to see if it would get better, then finally gave up. This SUX, man! This is supposed to be the weekend! I waited for 5 days for this day! Sigh... this is when I wish I could go through one of those drive-thrus, and order a wave. Actually, order about 20 nice peelers. BOOOOOOOooO~! O well, maybe tomorrow will be better. Angela wanted to go to El Porto to surf but she never woke up. Maybe we will make it there tomorrow... :-\