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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Sunday, February 27, 2005

Some day, I'll get there... Right? Some day...

Today, I went to Zuma beach to surf. Sunny and small surf. Perrrrrrfect for beginners. Nevertheless, I still managed to suck bad. There were too many people for me to be able to catch as many waves as I wanted. My Japanese surfer friends, Keisukei, Shinji, Ikkei, and Mizuno, and I went to Sunset (flat!), then Topanga (flat!), then Malibu (flat!), and finally saw some ridable surf at Zuma beach where we decided to surf that day. My Japanese surfer friends have all been surfing for 10+ years - all except Mizuno who has been surfing for only 1 year. He gets up on his feet on the small waves pretty easy, and is getting better at hitting the bigger waves. I just plain suck. But I did manage to catch one where I was able to drop in. Woohoo! But I think I got up too late. The rest - I couldn't get on. Ikkei took his 9 footer and caught many waves. There was this one old dude who was a wave hog. :-\ He was on the outside and caught the right each time he got back into the line up. So we all had to pull out. Eh, o well. He was having fun. But BOY, I WISH I could longboard like him. :-( ... Some day...

One thing I learned today though. Angling my take-off. If the wave has a punch, take off at an angle so that you don't pearl. If the wave doesn't have much power, you can take off almost perpendicular to the wave. But if the wave has some speed to it, take off at an angle and drop in at an angle, otherwise, you'll pearl. The more speed the wave has, the more angle your takeoff should be. So many things to remember.... And also, am I supposed to be looking at the wave as I take off too? And when do you decide whether to go right or left if you're not looking at the wave? Sigh...

Tomorrow is Monday. Another week! I haven't decided whether to go out tomorrow morning before work. I'll see how I feel when I go to sleep. By the way, I bought a new wetsuit today. Cost me two hundie. But I looooove it. 3/2 Bodyglove Matrix - triple glued/blindstitched throughout the whole suit. I hope I don't find it cheaper onlne... Otherwise, I'm going to be kicking myself in the butt. :-P

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