Judging Sunset

Not much to report today. Nothing eventful except that Marvin was there this morning and I got to talk to him a bit more about getting up on the wave. I woke up late this morning so didn't get to Sunset until 6:30am. And by then, there were a lot of cars parked on PCH already. No wonder - the waves looked good. So I pulled on my wetsuit and went into the water. On my way down, I overheard someone on his cell phone who said that County Line was double-overhead. (I probably would die in that.)

I need to practice judging the waves. I don't know whether the waves are going to be big or not. The few waves that I paddled for were big ones, and I got pummeled, expectedly. Marvin gave me some pointers in picking the smaller waves, but I still need practice. Lots of practice. I tried to pick small ones and by the time I decide to go for them, it's too late. But I'm afraid that if I get too used to the waves at Sunset, I'll end up getting pummeled on every other breaks. Sigh... too many things to remember!!!

I'm hittin' the sak early tonight so that I can get up early to go to Sunset.... I hope I dream about surf and adventure.