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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Monday, March 21, 2005

Late Sleeper...

That was me - late sleeper. My alarm went off at 5:15am, I turned it off. My second alarm went off at 5:25am, I turned it off. Then when I finally opened my eyes, I realized that it was light out! Uh-oh! It was now 6am! CRAP!! I need to be at the beach to surf before I go to work right now! Well, I missed my time window for my morning surf session - it was 6:30am by the time I got to Sunset. Nobody out except Sherman, Stephanie, and Marvin. The waves were much like yesterday - bumpy, disorganized, messy. If I had gotten there at 6am, I would have gone in with them. Now, it was too late. Something called work and responsibilities whispering in my ear. By this point, I would only have 45 minutes in the water. So I decided to watch and talk with Marlon who was also watching. He let me borrow a video on surfing in Costa Rica (I just watched the video and I got so excited that I started practicing my pop-ups. yea! =] ). I found out that my new friend has 45 boards (yes, FORTY FIVE) in his quiver! His apartment was like a store. And he's been surfing for only two and a half years. Nuts, I tell you. Just plain nuts. I wonder if I'll even ride 45 different boards in my lifetime. He had some really nice boards though. I liked the Tyler board that he had. Man, he's got it REALLY baaaaad. Surfsister, you don't have it bad at all compared to this dude. And I was contemplating getting another board too. I think I'll wait a bit until I can't fight the urge anymore. Maybe after Costa Rica...

1 Comments:

  • At 8:54 PM, Blogger Surfsister said…

    '-)

    Compared to him, I look like a wimp!! It looks like my newest new board will be here by the end of the week. That means I'll actually have a quiver (i.e., three boards). I'm trying to promise myself that I'll stop at three. I know I won't stop there. Hopefully, I'll let the money issue make me calm down for awhile.

     

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