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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Monday, April 04, 2005

Crappidy Crap Crap waves!

Sunday April 3, 2004

After my GRRRREAT day at San O, since Sunday was supposed to have some wind, we decided to surf up here. We got up early and ended up at Zuma. And boy, it was CRAPPIDY CRAP CRAP waves. Nevertheless, Angela and I decided to go in and get wet. But man, it was the worst conditions I'd ever been in to surf. Remember the scene in the Perfect Storm where the boat is just teetering in the middle of the waves in the midst of the storm? Well, I felt like I was in that water. The waves were disorganized, it was windy, waves were choppy, plus the water was FREEZING! I couldn't feel my hands and feet after 20 minutes in the water. But I decided to buck up and take it. And not surprisingly, I didn't catch anything. NADA! I longed for the long, lovely rides under the warm sun in San O again. So I've already decided, I'm going down to San O again next weekend. Both days if I can and Mother Nature cooperates.


Monday April 4, 2004

Man, today was useless. My alarm went off at 5:30am, I called Angela and Marlon, pulled on my bikini and wetsuit and was out the door by 6am. Stoked to be surfing this morning... or so I thought. We went to Venice Pier and it was just CRAPPIDY CRAP CRAP waves AGAIN. Completely blown out. The wind was blowing at about 12 knots, I would say. And the waves were choppy and disorganized. So I got up early for nothing once again. I hate it when that happens. I met Johnny (a dude that I met down at San O on saturday) who was at Venice Pier too. It was funny - he and his friends were swearing at how the waves were "so shitty". So much rage.. hahaha! They probably were bitter that they had gotten up at 5 in the morning and didn't even surf. Now, it's not even 9pm and I'm already tired. I hope it's better tomorrow.

Btw, I went to ZJ tonight to buy some earplugs and Garrett at the shop said that Timmy Curran and Rob Machado was out surfing by Tower 26 in Santa Monica around 8:30am.... I wish I had seen that.

2 Comments:

  • At 7:35 AM, Blogger G said…

    Hey,

    Good luck with the surfing! I made the 'transition' to a short board in 9 months, but I didn't go to work for all that time and was in the water practically every day. Keep at it, it rules.

    Visit http://g2007.com for some surf pictures and all!

    Gary

     
  • At 7:52 AM, Blogger OutdoorChick said…

    Thanks Gary. Cool pics.... Hopefully, I'll come back with cool photos like yours from Costa Rica!

     

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