e

My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Sunday, March 27, 2005

Magic surf pill please...

So, this weekend was perrrrfect. So small and so fun - at least, it was for me since I'm looking for the 1-2 foot waves. Over 3 ft and I get a bit hesitant. I think I made significant improvement this weekend. Either that, or the waves were so small and easy that I just did better than my usual sucky self. I actually managed to catch more than a couple of waves in a session, hop on my feet, and ride it in! Marvin was so right on. He said, "Month 3 and you'll be standing up." And low and behold, I'm in month 3 now, and I'm managing to catch the waves. Just give me another month and I'll start turning - according to Marvin (woohoo!). The waves that I did fall on were ones where I got scared,.. the ones that jacked me up even a little bit, the ones where I had to get up on my feet quick enough to not pearl, the ones where I had to hop on my feet and make that 2 foot drop. Man, it's only 2 feet but why do I get so scared? I see the face and the bottom of the wave, and think, "Oh shiet... GET YOUR ASS UP! or embrace yourself!" Then I get spooked and either fall off, or get on my feet, semi-make the drop, lose my balance and then eat it. I wish there was some magic pill that I could take to make me a great surfer.

After surfing this morning, I went to lunch with Marlon and a couple of other surfers. Then after lunch, Marlon wanted to go board shopping. Haha! That guy is completely addicted...

There's supposed to be a swell coming in this week which translates into bigger surf. Oh boy... I hope my weekend improvement will hold and that I will be able to get enough courage to get on the bigger 3-4 foot waves. Tomorrow - dawn patrol at Sunset....

Oh, I forgot to mention - something amusing while I was getting dressed yesterday after my session at Bay Street. A guy walked by with his 3 year old daughter (I think she was about 3) on his shoulders, and he was talking to his little girl about surfing. He told her how much fun it was and then says, "Now, we have to tell Mommy that you want to go surfing, ok? Then she'll let us both go later" :-) Is this what Whiffleboy is experiencing? Whiffleboy, maybe this would be a good tactic for you to try. ;-)

1 Comments:

  • At 8:47 AM, Blogger Whiffleboy said…

    Not quite experiencing that yet. My 6yr old stepdaughter won't go near a surfboard so I'm banking on my 1 year old to get the bug [with a little coaxing on my part] in the next couple of years. Oh to have that kind of leverage...

    I actually managed to get my wife out there on a board twice over the last 3 years. I'm longing for the day I can do that again.

     

Post a Comment

<< Home