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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Saturday, April 23, 2005

I'm not a popsicle!

I finally started feeling better yesterday, so decided to meet up with Marlon, Danny, and Joey at Sunset in the morning at 6:30am. Angela couldn't wake up (she didn't even hear my phone call) so missed a not-so-memorable morning session. I saw some fun sets breaking on the outside so I decided to go in. And DUDE, it was SOOOO COOOOOOLD! I swear I became a popsicle. And just my luck, after a full hour and a half in the freezing water, I didn't catch one single wave. WTF man... I sat there, paddled for a few waves and missed them, and continued to sit there with my hands under my armpits to try to keep them warm, waiting, waiting, shivering, and waiting. "Just 5 more minutes," I thought. "Another 5 more minutes, just a little bit longer...." And before I knew it, a full hour had passed by. I swear I was trying to torture myself or something. How long will I last in the 54 degree water before I lose it? (The answer is 1.5 hours, in case you're curious) I'm not on Fear Factor here, am I? I'm too old to be cold like this. Finally, I said, "ENOUGH!" I was annoyed by the cold and started feeling sick, so I decided to go in. I was so cold and disoriented that I had trouble finding my car key and putting the car key into the keyhole. Marlon, Joey, and Danny were still out there, sitting, waiting, sitting in the COLD ASS water. I racked my board on my car quickly and drove home in my wetsuit to take a HOT shower. Oh, and my dumb luck again - I hit traffic on my way back so it took me over 30 minutes to get home (usually, it takes me 10-15 min max!). I think I did turn into a popsicle. My lips were blue and my teeth were chattering when I got home.

Angela wants to go to El Porto tomorrow morning. I'm a bit nervous about going there because I heard that the waves are fast and can keep you underwater if you get pummelled. Plus, there are a lot of good surfers there. I'll just try to stay out of their way. Hopefully, the ElPorto.com report will hold and it will be okay conditions for people who suck like me. We'll see how I do tomorrow. Maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow morning than today...

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