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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Friday, April 08, 2005

Jane. Just Plain Jane.

Same routine - my alarm went off at 5:30am, I snoozed for 5 minutes, then called Marlon and Angela. Angela was off in dreamland as she didn't pick up. Marlon was concerned about the wind and stayed in bed. But I, the trooper that I am, got up and was out the door by 6:00 am to try to get to the beach early. And it was junk. Windy, choppy, disorganized pile of mess. I talked to Marvin, Gary, and Brian (who I met today) about the possibility of the surf getting better and it didn't look promising. So here I am, back at home. Got up at 5:30am for nothing again. I guess I should try to get to work early today since I was very late to work yesterday because of my morning surf session. Funny, every time I surf in the morning, I'm late to work. Every time I don't surf, I'm early. I find myself trying to come up with excuses to stay in the water longer to surf rather than facing my responsibilities of going to work. This addiction is not going to be good for my career here. :-P

On the bright side, I caught some notable waves at Bay Street yesterday. Marlon came out and let me use his 9-0 beater board - Jane, he had named it. He said he named her Jane because it was so plain when he bought it. He had put some traction pads and a nose guard to spice it up abit, but it was still Plain Jane. And MAN, what a difference from my 8-6 Becker UFO to his 9-0 beater board. I caught and stood up on the very first wave that I paddled for. That was the first for me. I usually need a couple of tries to warm up before I catch one on my Becker. And on the second wave that I paddled for, I tried to angle the board a bit like Anon had suggested a couple of posts back, and it worked! I didn't pearl, but went down the wave at an angle. (I would surely have pearled on my Becker. I know because I had tried it with my Becker a couple of sessions ago. Or maybe it was just the waves cooperating better?) I have to work on going down the line though. I caught a few more good ones during the session - woohoo! And his beater board was bit narrower so I could keep it held under my arm. The board didn't even hurt my head like my Becker usually did when I carried it on top of my head because it was so light. And then 7:45 rolled around and I really had to get out of the water. No more fun for beachgirl on this fine morning. BOOOOOO! Needless to say, I was about 45 minutes late to work. :-\ (Late for a meeting with my boss too. And I had no excuses. If anyone has any creative excuses besides car trouble, oversleeping, traffic, and hospital emergency, please let me know.)

Yes, Jane treated me well yesterday. So, em..umm... guess what.... Mhm. I bought Jane from Marlon for two hundies. That would be his down payment for a new Dewey Webber that he has been eyeing since last week when we went boardshopping after our session in San O. I told myself that I'll get really good while riding Jane, then splurge on a brand new longboard - probably next year. I won't go nuts and start a board collection like someone I know. ;-) I'll just stick with Jane for now. I've retired my Becker for the time being.

Off to San O tomorrow! WOOHOO!

3 Comments:

  • At 8:54 AM, Blogger Surfsister said…

    Girl, you are so screwed. You've got it as bad as I do!!! Stop reading my blog! My bad habits are rubbing off on you!
    Truthfully, I think buying that board from him was a good idea. Good move!

     
  • At 11:51 AM, Blogger OutdoorChick said…

    RJ, yep, Marlon is buying the Performer (I think) from Weber. He said something about the board being a sweet performance board. He's got it real bad. I will need to get good on Jane first before I go get myself a custom made longboard. I'll try not to get it as bad as you, Surfsis. Yes, I think your bad habits are rubbing off on me. Soon, we'll get it as bad as Marlon. :-P Surf's up this weekend. Hope the wind stays offshore in the morning.

     
  • At 8:37 PM, Blogger OutdoorChick said…

    Actually, he just bought the Professional with a step deck. SWEET. My other friend said that it was so beautiful that she wanted to cry. haha! She's got it almost as bad as Marlon.

     

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