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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Saturday, April 09, 2005

There she blows! San O....

Well, I woke up at 4:30am to get to Marlon's by 5am so that we could be in the water at San O by 6:30am. And we made it down to San O by 6:30 alright. All the way down to San Onofre, I had a hard time sitting still from the anticipation of riding Jane in the repeat of last Saturday's conditions at San O. And... the freakin' wind blew that bubble BIG TIME. WTF man! We got to Dogpatch and it was windy, choppy, bumpy, and cold. Unorganized pile of shiet waves - almost as bad as that day up at Zuma last weekend. Basically, shitty. Someone take me back to last Saturday's San O. Please? Pretty please?

We decided to go to Pipe's Cafe (OMG, SOOO GOOD and cheap! Only $5 for my ham scrambler :-P) in San Clemente for breakfast and come back. When we got back, it was cleaner, but still shitty. But since we had driven so far down, we decided to go in. BAD IDEA. BAD BAAAAD IDEA! First, it took me 20 minutes to paddle out. Second, when I paddled for waves, I couldn't catch them because they didn't have much juice. Third, it was hard for me to judge which swell was actually a wave and which was just the choppiness from the wind. Have I mentioned that it was shitty? I'm surprised that I didn't see any sharks to add to the shittiness. So after about 45 minutes, with numb hands and feet, I paddled in as the wind picked up even more. Man, cold and SO not fun. Have I mentioned that it was shitty? I'll never go out in those conditions again. :-[

So I got up at 4:30am for nothing. AGAIN. Now, I'm tired. At least, Marlon got his Dewey Weber Professional (sweet board btw). I hope it's better tomorrow, but I have a sinking feeling that it won't be much better. I can only hope...

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