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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Monday, April 25, 2005

Back to my old self?

I surfed Sunset yesterday morning. It was actually really fun. I wasn't a popsicle like the day before, and the waves treated me better. There weren't too many people there either, which surprised me. And I managed to catch MORE than one wave this time. One wave that puzzled me - I think I was in good position, I felt it come take me underneath, I paddled like no one's business, and I ended up on the top of the wave where the wave started to crest, then it passed me by. Could I have still caught this wave? Was I too far back on my board? Maybe I should have paddled harder, faster, and longer? Or should I have just stood up and prayed that I dropped down the face? I don't get it.... :-\ Other than that, nothing really eventful. I'm feeling myself catch waves better in LA now. But I'm trying to feel out the turning part. Right now, I just go straight into the beach, occassionally turning accidently. Is there anything I can do outside of the water to practice this turning thing so that I can go down the line?

No surfing for me this morning. My body is sore all over from being on my kite for the rest of the day after my surf session yesterday...

1 Comments:

  • At 1:15 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Try a skateboard for practicing turns. You'll learn to dig your toes (for going frontside) or dig your heels for going backside. Other than that, surf as much as possible! Oh, snowboarding really helped my surfing too.

     

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