I'm Scaredy-Cat!
My alarm went off at 5:30am and I rolled out of bed and into my wetsuit with my eyes barely open. Man, I was so tired... But I grabbed my board and drove myself to Sunset. I don't even remember driving there. You know that state when you're so tired that you just drive the route that you usually drive without even thinking about it? Well, I made it to Sunset without thinking twice. Wow, I guess it's now become a habit. :-P
I surfed the Point at Sunset this morning - my first time there. After everything that I've heard about the Point - that you have to be a good surfer to ride there, that you need to be able to turn quick and go down the line like pro or you'll end up at the rocks along with your board - I was a bit nervous about getting into the line up there. Actually, I was just scared. :-\ Yes, scared even though the waves were small. I still suck donkey. :-[ I did notice that the waves were a lot quicker than where I usually sit out at Sunset - Dos Banos and the Stairs. Marlon was there waiting for me in the line-up, which gave me some relief from the scaredy-cat in me. It was actually really fun. I met Michael (a cool dude that I'd never met before) who rode some waves with me and gave me pointers. And Marlon rode some waves with me and reminded me to turn to go down the line. Is there any lefts at Sunset? I'm a goofy foot and am always going down the line on rights. I don't think I've ever gone down the line on lefts. I wonder if I even know how... I'd like to order a left at Sunset please.
No notable waves to talk about. I'm catching waves consistently now (yey). Small waves, not big ones. I think I need to work on my posture though. Marlon says that I bend at the waist a lot of the time. Maybe I should practice squatting more during my popups in the livingroom. By the way, I really want to learn how to do a kick-out (wait, is this what its called?) at the end of the wave. I don't like this "jump off the board to stop the ride" routine. I see the others do a kick-out to turn the board and paddle right back out. Cool move... I asked Marlon about how to do it and he explained but eh, in one ear and out the other. I need to physically do it before I understand what that's all about...
All in all, it was a fun session. I made a new friend - Michael, surfed a new spot for the first time, and got good exercise. I wanted to stay longer but work, of course, got in the way as usual. X-(
Sunset again tomorrow morning...
I surfed the Point at Sunset this morning - my first time there. After everything that I've heard about the Point - that you have to be a good surfer to ride there, that you need to be able to turn quick and go down the line like pro or you'll end up at the rocks along with your board - I was a bit nervous about getting into the line up there. Actually, I was just scared. :-\ Yes, scared even though the waves were small. I still suck donkey. :-[ I did notice that the waves were a lot quicker than where I usually sit out at Sunset - Dos Banos and the Stairs. Marlon was there waiting for me in the line-up, which gave me some relief from the scaredy-cat in me. It was actually really fun. I met Michael (a cool dude that I'd never met before) who rode some waves with me and gave me pointers. And Marlon rode some waves with me and reminded me to turn to go down the line. Is there any lefts at Sunset? I'm a goofy foot and am always going down the line on rights. I don't think I've ever gone down the line on lefts. I wonder if I even know how... I'd like to order a left at Sunset please.
No notable waves to talk about. I'm catching waves consistently now (yey). Small waves, not big ones. I think I need to work on my posture though. Marlon says that I bend at the waist a lot of the time. Maybe I should practice squatting more during my popups in the livingroom. By the way, I really want to learn how to do a kick-out (wait, is this what its called?) at the end of the wave. I don't like this "jump off the board to stop the ride" routine. I see the others do a kick-out to turn the board and paddle right back out. Cool move... I asked Marlon about how to do it and he explained but eh, in one ear and out the other. I need to physically do it before I understand what that's all about...
All in all, it was a fun session. I made a new friend - Michael, surfed a new spot for the first time, and got good exercise. I wanted to stay longer but work, of course, got in the way as usual. X-(
Sunset again tomorrow morning...
posted by OutdoorChick @ 7:34 PM
3 Comments:
At 6:38 AM,
Surfsister said…
I'm a goofy foot too. So is Whiff. We're all stuck with going right at Sunset. I have gone left there, but the lefts are short. As for kicking out, I can't do it either but I had an epiphany about kick outs, cheater fives, and trim the other day. Now I just need the waves to cooperate and allow me to test my theory. I think I've kind of figured this stuff out. It's all a learning process. Don't rush yourself. You'll get it.
At 7:34 AM,
OutdoorChick said…
Sigh... I know. A long, neverending learning process. I wish I could do it though. :-\ Maybe by this time next year, I'll be able to do it? I hope I get it soon though.
At 9:02 AM,
Whiffleboy said…
There was a left for a while in between the potties and the stairs this past fall but the sand shifted and it doesn't really make an appearance anymore. Go to El Porto if you wanna find a left. The difference is tremendous.
You don't need to be a good surfer to surf the Point at Sunset. You just need to be able to make your drops 1) because you run the risk of your board/you getting pushed to the rocks if you don't and 2) if you can't make your drop you should be surfing a less desireable area of the break anyways.
Whiff
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