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My Surf Blog: Learning to be a Surfer in Los Angeles...

A woman's trials and tribulations of learning to surf in Los Angeles

Friday, May 20, 2005

O waves, why do you hate me so?

Since I haven't surfed in a few days due to my busy work schedule, I got up early this morning at 5:30am to surf. No, I didn't check the tide, and no, I didn't check the conditions. And yes, I was too lazy to check the surf report last night. I guess I never learn, do I... :-\ I figured that I'd paddle out no matter what anyways. I went to Bay Street and the ocean looked angry. Wave after wave... I think it must have taken me about 15 minutes to paddle out. Man, my paddling must still suck donkey. I thought my paddling had improved, but I guess I was wrong. After I got outside, I was so tired that I needed to rest for another 10 minutes. And as soon as I caught a wave in, I had to deal with being pounded by set after set in my struggle to get back outside. Ay-yay-yay... Caught on the inside AGAIN! I tried to paddle outside again for about 20 more minutes then just gave up. I got pissed off at the waves for getting the best of me and pummeling me with their anger one after another. Finally, I just said, "fine, you win." Yes, I'm a wimp. O waves, why do you hate me so? I just wanted a few rides this morning....

On the bright side, the water has been warming up. I was really hot in my 3/2 full suit. :-P

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